At the suggestion of Captain George, we left El Cid Marina at 4pmto sail to Isla Isabella. A short exit to the harbor put us in rough seas, with no sails, fenders down and dock lines undressed. Tom went to work and got everything straightened out and put up sails, then the auto-pilot quite responding.
We were reluctant to hand steer all night, so we thought we’d duck into Mazatlan’s main harbor for the night so Tom could fix it. We missed the approach, realizing in was the north side of the harbor which has an isthmus going out. We had to back track and go around to the other side.
It was getting dark by the time we were in position to enter the harbor. It was scary, the lights were unclear and didn’t look right and we all decided to sail to Isabella and hand steer if we had to, rather than anchor next to the sewage treatment plant. Shortly thereafter, the auto-pilot started working again!
After a great overnight sail we approached Isla Isabella about 8 am, and were at anchor by 10 am. There was only one other boat in the anchorage, but later a third boat came in. It was spectacular, crystal clear water – looking over the side of the boat was like looking into an aquarium with colorful fish everywhere. We all donned our masks and fins and prepared for a swim. Before I could get in, Tom reported that it was full of tiny, invisible jelly fish. It was like swimming through electrically charged water. So much for snorkeling.
We explored the other anchorage by dinghy, unable to locate the wreck that was supposed to be there. Then we went ashore to explore on foot. Blue footed boobies were everywhere – and incredibly tame. Mark convinced us to slog through the mangroves and trees to find the Crater Lake. After being mobbed by giant spider webs, spooked by nervous squawking boobies, stepping in piles of booby shit we decided to turn back. We got some great photos – see album.
Boobies Everywhere!
Mainland Mexico
The party was fun, now our journey begins. When we arrived at El Cid, Captain George wasted no time in coming over to welcome us and give us a detailed orientation. He gave us a Cruisers Guide to Mazatlan and asked for a 3$ donation, which he gives to a local orphanage. We hopped on the local cruisers net a 8 am the next day - it was fun. We decided to stay 4 night - the Haha special was buy 3 nights get one free! We need the R & R, want to do some sight seeing, make some repairs and EAT SHRIMP!
The highlight of Mazatlan was the Central Mercado. All of the vendors - fruits, veggies, meats, seafood, trinkets - were amazing. We went up to the second floor to dine where the locals go. We had an incredible feast - for 3 of us all for about $15.The sad thing about Mazatlan was the graphite - it was everywhere you looked - very unnerving. The other challenge was the tourist area - hawkers everywhere. Other than than that, it was a great time.
Reflections on the Haha
We left San Jose Del Cabo at 7 am on 11/8 to cross the Sea of Cortez to Mazatlan. It was quiet, calm and we saw very few boats. Light winds helped some, but we motored for 29 hours. We pulled into Marina El Cid about noon on 11/9. The party was over and we said good-bye to our young crew, and welcome our new crew member: Dr. Mark Burcaw, DC.
We're very glad that our journey started with the Baja Haha. It was such a well run event. The pace was faster than we'd probably have gone on our own - but the comfort of traveling with such a large group was more than worth it. It was great to meet so many like minded people and new cruiser friends. Richard Spindler is so PASSIONATE about it. He's a "father hen" who worries about the safety of each crewman on every boat.
The Baja Haha gave us the confidence to continue on our own - knowing we are part of a very large, giving, caring cruising community.
Thanks Richard!
Cat Jumps Ship
While we were below having dinner, Chico decided to inspect the boatyard adjacent to the fuel dock. Fortunately, Tom had reinstalled the Locator device on his collar. Off we went in the dark with the receiver and a flashlight looking for our missing crewman. I picked up a faint signal from inside the 12 ft fenced compound. How are we ever going to get to him, I wondered.
I'd stepped down a curb on my way past one wall. When walking back I forgot it was there and tripped and fell. I skinned my knee and top of my left foot. Tom heard me go down with a "thud" and asked if I broke my leg. I was angry and the fall and at Chico and replied "F___ No, I'm fine!"
A security guard on a 4 week ATV showed up, wanting to know what we we up to. We explained about our lost gato. He let me climb up his vehicle to see if I could see Chico. Then the signal started getting weaker. Shortly there after the security guard is walking with me saying "here kitty, kitty". I was focused on the signal on the receiver, it was getting stronger so we were getting closer. The guard spotted him first because I was looking at the signal. "There he is!" - the guard was as excited as I was. Chico was rolling around on his back in the grass. I reached through a space in the fence and grabbed that orange cat by the scruff of his neck, and pulled him to the same side of the fence. He was scared and I held him tightly as we walked back to the boat.
He hadn't been off the boat since last 4th of July weekend. We'd spent Friday night at the dock that weekend and Ray and Jennifer were coming the next day to sail to Cat Harbor, Catalina. I was making shrimp for dinner, Chico love shrimp as much as I do. He's usually in position near on the steps near the counter waiting for handouts, but wasn't there. I look the Locator but couldn't pick up his signal. I figured he was off exploring other boats as usual. He finally showed up - soaking wet. It seems he decided it was time for unauthorized swimming lesson. We don't know how he fell in, or how he got out, but he never left the boat again. At least until San Jose del Cabo!
Leg Three of the Baja Haha
There was little wind during leg 3 so we motored most of the way. Fortunately, our crew did do night watches after the night at San Quitin. Tom still kept a sharp eye and ear out during their watches. We'd expected to be in Cabo fairly early on 11/4/10. The last 5 miles around Cabo Falso were gale force conditions - 35 knot winds right on our head. We finally anchored about 5pm in the nastiest conditions I'd ever seen in an anchorage - mixed swells and winds. It calmed about 8 pm, then the wind shifted about 11:30 pm and it was utterly miserable.
I'd declined a $150 per night side tie slip as the marina was exposed in these conditions. The next day, a regular slip became available so we took it. We got and end slip near the marina gate/boardwalk. It was astounding how many people stopped to photograph the Santorini. She did look stunning - so unique among the common super-sport fishers, bleach bottle sailboats and the other vessels in the harbor.
More parties! A beach party, awards ceremony, and numerous cantina gatherings. We grew weary of having to keep a schedule. On 11/7 we went to say good-bye for now to Jack and Leann on Red Sky and left cabo at noon.