On Monday morning we left about 7 am to motor over to Play Del Coco, the first port of entry in Northern Costa Rica. We passed by Gorilla Rock on out way to Play de Coco.
We pulled in and anchored near Blue and unloaded the dinghy to go ashore. The Port Captain's office opens at 8 am and we arrived about 8:30 am to begin the "paperwork Cha Cha". We saw Neville and Maggie at the Port Captain's Office, they'd already been to the Immigration office. There were no instructions as to what the process was and impossible to get that information.After about 45 minutes, we received a piece of paper from the Port Captain's assistant and were instructed to go to the Immigration office. We arrived at 9:15 am and saw a sign on the door that said 'cerado por comission". We had no idea what that meant so we knocked on the door.
It opened and a woman who appeared to be the cleaning lady explain that they were closed for "coffee break". But she let us come in to sit down and wait. Paula, the Immigration Official, who made it clear that she was the only employee there, didn't just have coffee - it was a full breakfast. We listened to her clang silverware on a plate for a full 30 minutes. Then the water ran for a very long time - either she was washing dishes or taking a shower. We couldn't tell.
At 10 am - a full 45 minute later - Paula was finally ready to stamp our passports. Dan the marina manager later explained to us that she's a political appointee and has her job FOR LIFE - how pathetic! This woman has absolutely no clue that she is the first impression people get about her country - Costa Rica. We'd heard good things about it, but our experience entering the country was nearly enough to make us want to by pass it.
After Paula finished, we had to go back to the Port Captain's office, then to the bank, wait in line to pay money, then Tom and Neville shared a cab to go to customs. it was 3 pm in the afternoon before we'd finished the process - an entire day wasted!
As for Playa Del Coco, it wasn't what we'd expected at all. Dan said it best: it's a dirty little beach town. He lived there for a few years, so he knows it well. Later we spoke with a couple who'd been victims of theft there. It seems two 13 year old boys boarded their sailboat and stole a bunch of stuff. Ben caught them and forced them ashore and turned them over to the police. He confiscated a bunch of the stuff they stole.
Ben was sitting with two policemen at a table sorting the items into two piles: one for trash like electronics that had been destroyed by salt water; and one for salvageable items. In that pile he'd placed a waterproof watch that had been a retirement gift. When we went to gather the good items - his watch was gone. One of the two policemen and stolen it! So much for punishing theft in Costa Rica.
It would be an indication of what was to come. Although we got through Costa Rica with all of our belongings in tack, others did not and we were paranoid the whole time we were there. NEVER in Mexico, were we fearful of theft. Yes, we locked our motor, dinghy, etc. but we always felt safe and thieves we never so bold as to board your boat - especially when it was occupied!
Costa Rica gets 40% of it's GNP from tourism, unless they want to see a decline I suggest they get serious about the problem. Our personal recommendation: SKIP COSTA RICA!