El Aquario: The Aquarium

The beauty of this bay was tempered as we approached the anchorage near Punta Chubasco: Jellyfish were abundant. But we were very excited to see our friend from La Cruz: Larry on the trawler Hobo at anchor, along with a few other boats. He told us that Revelcito, a town off the bay just west of where we were anchored had been 'shut down" due to a land dispute. The cruising guides had mentioned it but I still wondered "How do you shut down a town??? " So no palapas on the beach, no little tiendas, nada, nothing, zip - EXCEPT one all-inclusive resort: The Blue Bay Lagoon Resort.

We unloaded the dinghy and went ashore to check out the beach. We walked down to the resort and stuck our heads in. A cruising guide said they sometimes let cruisers to patronize the restaurant and use their swimming pool, but they wanted to sell us expensive wristbands to cover certain times of the day for around $30 per person. While a was getting this information, Dr. Mark was engaged in heavy negotiations in Spanish for beer and pizza. He'd negotiated a rate of 150 pesos (about $15 US) for beer and pizza for the three of us!

The next day we packed a lunch, grabbed our snorkel gear and left early to take the dinghy up the river for another Jungle Tour. Still no crocodiles, but it was very cool. Larry had said the area was off limits, but the cruising guide said and maps indicated that you could go to the end and then walk over to the next bay which was labeled "The Aquarium" on the maps.

When we reached the lagoon at the end of the river there was a rope across it and a bunch of armed security guards standing on the shore near a dock. Mark called out to them and asked permission to approach them, requesting permission to go snorkeling for an hour. They said there were no services available on shore. Mark has such a way of disarming people. In Spanish he asked 'What no beer, no pizza, no dancing girls?" The guards responded with laughter and agreed to let us go ashore. They only said "no photos".

So we took a short walk over a berm to the beautiful sand beach on our way to the appropriately named snorkel spot "El Aquario". It was teaming with amazingly colorful, tropical fish - incredible varieties, including rays, eels but thankfully no jelly fish. I was sufficiently spooked by the jelly fish in just the next bay where we were anchored so the nasty little blue rasps that thought they were piranhas and kept picking at me were really freaking me out.

It was a great day that would not likely have turned out as it did without Mark's quick wit and charm. We had cold beer a lunch on our way back down the river to Ten Bay. He was felling so good that he did a hand stand on the beach - Beto's treatment had worked miracles on his injured shoulder. Since there wasn't anything else there, we decided to sail to Malaque that afternoon as it was only 6 miles...

Six Miles of HELL

Since it was ONLY 6 miles from Ten Bay to Malaque, we decided to tow the dinghy instead of hoisting it up on deck and stowing it. BIG MISTAKE. We got out of the bay at it was blowing 30-35 knots and there were 8-10 ft seas. It was NASTY.

We got in and anchored before dark then jumped in the dink and went ashore to the only busy palapa on the beach. There was only one other sailboat in the harbor – Bill’s boat. He was upset with us because his boat was no long the only boat. He was joking in a psycho sort of way. He did help us land the dinghy and pull it up the beach. The next day he nearly rammed us, (claiming he was having anchor problems), then he was gone.

The Med in Mexico

We arrived in Bahia Chamela the next day, but there was a strong south wind and a nasty northwest swell. As a result, we could not find a good anchorage out of the three recommended spots. We took a pass through and decided to keep heading south. We went into Pariso, but again the wind conditions and swell were not working for us, even after trying to set a stern anchor. We dropped anchor and had a rolly lunch. We saw that Careyes wasn’t much further and we’d make it in before dark. The third time was a charm. Careyes is a very small anchorage but we had room to anchor off a point in the main bay, a stern anchor made sure we were comfortable.

The next day I was finally able to do some snorkeling along with Tom and Mark. The water was still quite cool, but really refreshing. Lots of colorful houses and hotels scattered the hillside. It almost looked Mediterranean, but the colors of the buildings on the hill were just bit too garish for that area. We left at about 10 am, after our swim, to head to Bahia Tenacatita.

Cuising into La Cruz

We arrived in La Cruz, got anchored by 4:30 pm put the dinghy in the water and went into town. It was Saturday Night and Philo’s was a rockin’! We had beer and pizza for dinner (can’t remember the last time we had that) and great live music entertainment.

We also ran into Kit and Debbie - the couple who had left to go cruising in October of 2006 and Santorini got their vacant slip. They were SO EXCITED to see us. They said that so many people “talk” about going cruising, but so few actually DO IT.

We spent three nights at anchor, a bit rolly at times but mostly quiet. Then we took a slip at the marina for three more nights to charge our batteries, do laundry, etc. It was also nice because Mark could come and go as he pleased without needing us to transport him in the dinghy.

We were surprised at how much the monthly slip fees were, especially since they don’t offer potable water. The marina was pretty empty. We were also told that they increase prices dramatically during high season so a lot of boats go out to the anchorage during those months. Why not keep prices the same and keep more boats in the marina???

Philo’s was closed on Sunday and Monday but we found a great restaurant owned by Joe from Seattle: Live jazz music with a yummy Sunday brunch served up in an elegant tropical patio setting. I alas, was searching for a sports bar to watch my beloved Minnesota Vikings – hopefully with WIFI. No Problem! We asked and Joe set us up in our very own private sports bar WITH wifi. He hadn’t opened it yet because the bar and other furniture wasn’t finished being made yet.

The Vikes lost and looked utterly miserable – but the food, service and atmosphere were unbelievable. Tuesday Night we went to the English Pub “Brigadoon” which was across the street from Joe's place, because we heard they had an awesome Open Mic night. Incredible musical talent is quite prevalent in La Cruz.

Before going into the La Cruz Marina I decided to go to Nuevo Vallarta by bus to check out Paradise Village Marina. I must have walked about 5 miles after I got off the bus – not realizing how far it was. I finally arrived at the Vallarta Yacht Club, tired thirsty and hungry after such a long walk. It was nice. I had a yummy chicken tostada salad and a couple of cold beers to regain my strength.

The Marina Complex, however, was way too “Disney” for our tastes. They did at least offer potable water, but our water maker was working just fine so it wasn’t that important so we decided to stay in La Cruz. It was a much better vibe.

The Wednesday before Thanksgiving Kit and Debbie took and 8 of us cruisers on a shopping extravaganza in their motor home. We provisioned at Costco, Sam’s Club, Home Depot, Zaragoza (marine supply) and Mega Foods. I met Larry on Hobo who was also continuing south with his wife the next day. We spent Thanksgiving at Philo’s. It was pot luck, with them providing the turkeys and again the music rocked.

We left on Friday to head south of Cabo Coriente, on to Chamela.

Laid Back Beach Town

When we left San Blas we headed for Chacala and spent one night. It’s a funky little beach town with palapas lining the shore which provided shade and refreshments. Unfortunately, this bay was full of large jellyfish so no swimming.

We spotted a cool looking building on the south side of the bay and when we asked was informed that it was a holistic health center. Or course Mark and I had to check it out. When we arrived and nice man offered to give us a tour. It was truly amazing and provided Mark with a great deal of inspiration for developing his property in the Yucatan.

Passing the Bar was EASY!

We left Isla Isabella for San Blas at about 8 am. We had a great sail back to the mainland but were a bit apprehensive about the local Meany – Norm Goldie and getting into the estuary. We’d read his recent rants in Latitude 38, and readers’ responses and we’d spoken with other cruisers. Some said he wasn’t a bad guy, others said he is very controlling and just wants your money. We weren’t sure what we’d find. We’d downloaded a San Blas Cruisers’ Guide that had waypoints into the estuary.

Tom did a great job getting us over the sandbar, and then we ran aground after going to the left side of the green buoy outside the marina. It’s a sand bottom, so no harm done; we just backed her off and went to deeper water. There were only about 3 boats in the marina, one other boat in the anchorage. As the guide advised us, we found Pepe and got the hook up for landing our dinghy.

We spent four nights in San Blas – what a great little town. The only challenge was the 2:30 am “freeway” that passed on both sides of the boat. The fishermen would leave to go out at that hour and race by the boat without regard to the proximity or speed that they would pass by. We took the dinghy further up the estuary. It was nice; we saw lots of birds, but no crocodiles.

Mark located a “wisero” – a healer – named Beto for the body surfing injury to his shoulder. Beto had lived in Los Angeles for several years in the 1990s. He and Mark became fast friends. A highlight of our stay there was dinner at a local restaurant called El Hehenero (the name for no see-m bugs). What a great feast – we had smoked marlin (it was cooked to perfection and tasted like swordfish), fish ceviche, shrimp ceviche, tostadas and salsa and cold beer, of course!

We really enjoyed San Blas. The Mercado was great, the town wasn’t touristy and the prices were cheap. The bugs were not as bad a rumored to be so that was a relief.

Boobies Everywhere!

At the suggestion of Captain George, we left El Cid Marina at 4pmto sail to Isla Isabella. A short exit to the harbor put us in rough seas, with no sails, fenders down and dock lines undressed. Tom went to work and got everything straightened out and put up sails, then the auto-pilot quite responding.

We were reluctant to hand steer all night, so we thought we’d duck into Mazatlan’s main harbor for the night so Tom could fix it. We missed the approach, realizing in was the north side of the harbor which has an isthmus going out. We had to back track and go around to the other side.

It was getting dark by the time we were in position to enter the harbor. It was scary, the lights were unclear and didn’t look right and we all decided to sail to Isabella and hand steer if we had to, rather than anchor next to the sewage treatment plant. Shortly thereafter, the auto-pilot started working again!

After a great overnight sail we approached Isla Isabella about 8 am, and were at anchor by 10 am. There was only one other boat in the anchorage, but later a third boat came in. It was spectacular, crystal clear water – looking over the side of the boat was like looking into an aquarium with colorful fish everywhere. We all donned our masks and fins and prepared for a swim. Before I could get in, Tom reported that it was full of tiny, invisible jelly fish. It was like swimming through electrically charged water. So much for snorkeling.

We explored the other anchorage by dinghy, unable to locate the wreck that was supposed to be there. Then we went ashore to explore on foot. Blue footed boobies were everywhere – and incredibly tame. Mark convinced us to slog through the mangroves and trees to find the Crater Lake. After being mobbed by giant spider webs, spooked by nervous squawking boobies, stepping in piles of booby shit we decided to turn back. We got some great photos – see album.

Mainland Mexico

The party was fun, now our journey begins. When we arrived at El Cid, Captain George wasted no time in coming over to welcome us and give us a detailed orientation. He gave us a Cruisers Guide to Mazatlan and asked for a 3$ donation, which he gives to a local orphanage. We hopped on the local cruisers net a 8 am the next day - it was fun. We decided to stay 4 night - the Haha special was buy 3 nights get one free! We need the R & R, want to do some sight seeing, make some repairs and EAT SHRIMP!

The highlight of Mazatlan was the Central Mercado. All of the vendors - fruits, veggies, meats, seafood, trinkets - were amazing. We went up to the second floor to dine where the locals go. We had an incredible feast - for 3 of us all for about $15.

The sad thing about Mazatlan was the graphite - it was everywhere you looked - very unnerving. The other challenge was the tourist area - hawkers everywhere. Other than than that, it was a great time.

Reflections on the Haha

We left San Jose Del Cabo at 7 am on 11/8 to cross the Sea of Cortez to Mazatlan. It was quiet, calm and we saw very few boats. Light winds helped some, but we motored for 29 hours. We pulled into Marina El Cid about noon on 11/9. The party was over and we said good-bye to our young crew, and welcome our new crew member: Dr. Mark Burcaw, DC.

We're very glad that our journey started with the Baja Haha. It was such a well run event. The pace was faster than we'd probably have gone on our own - but the comfort of traveling with such a large group was more than worth it. It was great to meet so many like minded people and new cruiser friends. Richard Spindler is so PASSIONATE about it. He's a "father hen" who worries about the safety of each crewman on every boat.

The Baja Haha gave us the confidence to continue on our own - knowing we are part of a very large, giving, caring cruising community.

Thanks Richard!

Cat Jumps Ship

Last night we stayed at the Marina at San Jose Del Cabo - for FREE tied up to the fuel dock for the night. We pulled in at 4 pm to get fuel and a slip for one night. They were full. Jim the Harbor Master asked what time we planned to leave the next day, we said "first light". He said to pull forward on the 150' fuel dock after we'd fueled up for the night - no charge. It seems the fuel dock closed at 4:30 pm and didn't open until 8 am - we'd be long gone. That took a little sting out of the two nights at Cabo.

While we were below having dinner, Chico decided to inspect the boatyard adjacent to the fuel dock. Fortunately, Tom had reinstalled the Locator device on his collar. Off we went in the dark with the receiver and a flashlight looking for our missing crewman. I picked up a faint signal from inside the 12 ft fenced compound. How are we ever going to get to him, I wondered.

I'd stepped down a curb on my way past one wall. When walking back I forgot it was there and tripped and fell. I skinned my knee and top of my left foot. Tom heard me go down with a "thud" and asked if I broke my leg. I was angry and the fall and at Chico and replied "F___ No, I'm fine!"

A security guard on a 4 week ATV showed up, wanting to know what we we up to. We explained about our lost gato. He let me climb up his vehicle to see if I could see Chico. Then the signal started getting weaker. Shortly there after the security guard is walking with me saying "here kitty, kitty". I was focused on the signal on the receiver, it was getting stronger so we were getting closer. The guard spotted him first because I was looking at the signal. "There he is!" - the guard was as excited as I was. Chico was rolling around on his back in the grass. I reached through a space in the fence and grabbed that orange cat by the scruff of his neck, and pulled him to the same side of the fence. He was scared and I held him tightly as we walked back to the boat.

He hadn't been off the boat since last 4th of July weekend. We'd spent Friday night at the dock that weekend and Ray and Jennifer were coming the next day to sail to Cat Harbor, Catalina. I was making shrimp for dinner, Chico love shrimp as much as I do. He's usually in position near on the steps near the counter waiting for handouts, but wasn't there. I look the Locator but couldn't pick up his signal. I figured he was off exploring other boats as usual. He finally showed up - soaking wet. It seems he decided it was time for unauthorized swimming lesson. We don't know how he fell in, or how he got out, but he never left the boat again. At least until San Jose del Cabo!

Leg Three of the Baja Haha

There was little wind during leg 3 so we motored most of the way. Fortunately, our crew did do night watches after the night at San Quitin. Tom still kept a sharp eye and ear out during their watches. We'd expected to be in Cabo fairly early on 11/4/10. The last 5 miles around Cabo Falso were gale force conditions - 35 knot winds right on our head. We finally anchored about 5pm in the nastiest conditions I'd ever seen in an anchorage - mixed swells and winds. It calmed about 8 pm, then the wind shifted about 11:30 pm and it was utterly miserable.

I'd declined a $150 per night side tie slip as the marina was exposed in these conditions. The next day, a regular slip became available so we took it. We got and end slip near the marina gate/boardwalk. It was astounding how many people stopped to photograph the Santorini. She did look stunning - so unique among the common super-sport fishers, bleach bottle sailboats and the other vessels in the harbor.

More parties! A beach party, awards ceremony, and numerous cantina gatherings. We grew weary of having to keep a schedule. On 11/7 we went to say good-bye for now to Jack and Leann on Red Sky and left cabo at noon.